Thoroughly Modern Mimi

Mimi loves museums and she loves free admittance even better.

Starting on January 1, 2010, Bank of America cardholders can get into select museums, zoos, science centers, botanical gardens and more for free with the Museums on Us program . All you need is your Bank of America card and a photo ID.

Some of the country’s finest are included, such as the Museum of Fine
Arts in Boston; Winterthur in Delaware; High Museum of Art in
Atlanta; The Henry Ford Museum in Dearborn, MI; Please Touch
 in Philadelphia, PA; and in New York City: the Metropolitan,
Bronx Zoo, and Whitney Museum of American Art. 

Get the full list of participating locations, as well as eligible 

weekends through September 2010, here:

http://museums.bankofamerica.com/

Finding discounts on travel has never been more important.  While Orlando theme park admissions remain expensive, annual passes may be a way to save, especially for Florida residents.   

Sea World currently offers a fantastic deal good through December 31, 2010.  Florida residents (children and adults) pay only $69.95, less than a 1-day ticket, and can come back all year to enjoy Shamu, the rides and sights with a 2010 SeaWorld Fun Card. Enjoy unlimited general admission through December 31, 2010 if  purchased online. The ticket has no blackout dates, but parking is not included.  A combined Fun Card for Sea World Orlando and Busch Gardens Tampa is $139.90. Check the Internet at www.SeaWorldOrlando.com or www.BuschGardensTampaBay.com or at participating AAA offices.

For non-Florida residents, the Blackstone Corp. parks, which include Busch Gardens, Sea World and the two water parks Adventure Island and Aquatica, offer “annual passports” for any combination of the four parks. For example, the one-park annual price is $99.95, or a 2 year pass is only $149.99.  An annual pass with unlimited entry to any of the four parks costs $239.95.  The cost can be broken into monthly payments that are drafted from a bank account. Again, see the website for various combination ticket prices. 

Universal Studios and Islands of Adventure also offer a discounted Florida resident holiday pass.  Enjoy unlimited admission to both theme parks through January 31, 2010 with no blackout dates for only $79.99 plus tax per person.

However, you may wish to think ahead. Universal’s Islands of Adventure will open the Wizarding World of Harry Potter in spring 2010. At a construction cost of $235 - $265 million, this park guarantees magic for mere muggles.  An annual pass to both Universal parks can be purchased for $149.99 with blackout dates or $229.99 with no blackout dates and free parking. Since Universal has no firm Potter opening date, it remains difficult to plan for school spring breaks. However, the price is outstanding compared to a 1-day, 1-park gate cost of $79.  Universal Studios and Islands of Adventure also offer monthly payments for an annual pass.

Disney does not offer a monthly payment plan. Nor does it allow consumers to choose which of the four parks they’d rather visit, making the cheapest of its passes, the seasonal pass, the priciest of all the parks. The cost for ages 10 and up is ^$489; however Florida residents get a discounted price of $369, including parking.  A Florida seasonal pass (which includes many blackout dates) is only $249 and Floridians may buy an Epcot after 4 PM pass for $139- good if you enjoy dining onsite. Check www.MouseSavers.com .

As a grandparent of five, purchasing myself a card may be the best way to go. Remember, the savings will depend on the number of times you actually visit the park.  Of course, the gift of an annual pass will guarantee smiles and gives any age child something to look forward to-with or without grandma.  

In one of the most gorgeous scenic landscapes anywhere in the world, you will find one of the most bizarre mortuaries.

The tiny town of Hallstatt (population 1,000) lies precariously perched on the side of a mountain. Little A-frame houses cling to the hillside as if they were magically suspended or stuck on with Velcro. Main Street rests at the base, along the shores of a shimmering blue lake resembling a fjord.  A stone church with a tall pointed steeple seems close enough to teeter on the edge.

    Walk along Main which runs up and down like a staircase throughout the village (cars are not permitted during the day). Climb up to the Roman Catholic Church with a fine 16^th-century altarpiece and cemetery with an eerie bone chapel. Compared to the Capuchin Cemetery in Rome (see my previous blog) , the Hallstatt collection is more a one room schoolhouse. Called a Beinhaus or charnel house , it crams in 1,200 skulls painted with floral designs and in some cases the name, date and cause of death.

You see, shortage of space in the graveyard limited the number of burial plots.  So, bodies were removed after decomposing for ten years to make room for the new.  The practice makes sense when you understand and see the territorial constraints. The bone chapel is a sacred place to the close-knit residents.

Most tourists come to Hallstatt to see the beauty of the setting and visit the salt mines.   A nearby funicular runs up the mountain transporting guests to observation point with a storybook, awe-inspiring view.  Then, they hike a path to the mine entrance and don pajama-like jumpsuits.  Group tours enter a tunnel and then progress deeper underground via fast wooden slides.  This makes a fun adventure and eventually you exit by straddling a small train.

Hallstatt calls itself Austria’s oldest town with solid evidence dating back to 400 BC. The town name derives from the Celtic word “hall” meaning salt. Hence, salt mines near the village provided the livelihood for the region, which has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage site .

Another fascinating attraction in the area is the Dachstein ice cave.  To get to the cave, ride a gondola, then hike uphill about twenty minutes to reach the entrance. Spectacular and certainly worth the effort. Warning:  even in summer the temperature in the caves is cool enough to require a jacket.

Absolutely don’t miss the Reinanke trout fresh from the lake. The local fish is served on a slab and tastes luscious, buttery and mouth watering good.  In fact I’ll make a bold statement– Reinanke is the best fish I have ever eaten. I devoured it both nights we stayed in
the Salzkammergut region .

My family loved visiting Hallstatt in the month of June, but I can’t imagine stopping there in winter.  Well…I do live in Florida.  However, if I got that chance, I’d go- with the warmest parka I could find.

With Halloween approaching, I thought I’d blog about a few of the eeriest places I’ve visited over the years.  Without a doubt, the Capuchin Cemetery in Rome, Italy, takes the dubious honor.

You’ll find the cemetery, actually a crypt beneath the church of Santa Maria della Concezione dei Cappuccini, on the Via Veneto near Palazzo Barbareni. The ghastly chamber reeks with decay and is divided into five tiny chapels linked via a dim passageway.  The place is so weird, even Dan Browne never mentioned it in his book, Angels and Demons.

Within lies the final resting place for over 4,000 Capuchin friars, who died between 1528 and 1870. Some were first buried elsewhere, and then transferred here. The soil in the crypt was brought from Jerusalem. A few dozen skeletons remain intact, draped in hooded Franciscan habits. Large numbers of bones adorn the walls in complex decorative patterns; some resemble bas-reliefs, others hang from the ceiling as working light fixtures. One chapel overflows with countless leg bones and  another with skulls.

A plaque in one of the chapels reads, in three languages, “What you are now, we once were; what we are now, you shall be.”

The first room, known as the crypt of the resurrection, features a picture of Jesus raising Lazarus from the dead, framed by parts of a human skeleton. Visitors are encouraged to interpret the displays of funereal art as the Christian belief in resurrection and everlasting life.

I honestly can’t describe the macabre, grotesque effect, albeit with a certain artistic merit.  The unearthed skeletal array makes this sacred shrine more a ghoulish tourist attraction. One needs only a few minutes to see the place, if at all.

Disney theme parks will offer free admission to those who complete a day of volunteer work in 2010.  Yes, a free day’s admission to 1 million guests who complete a day of volunteer work next year.

The “Give a Day, Get a Disney Day” program will provide certified volunteers with a one-day ticket to any park at Disneyland in Anaheim, California, or Walt Disney World near Orlando, Florida, in 2010.

Disney is partnering with HandsOn Network , a clearinghouse with 70,000 affiliated agencies, from Habitat for Humanity to local food banks, churches, health-care centers, and educational programs.

Once their service is verified by HandsOn, volunteers print out an online certificate that can be redeemed at a Disney park. See www.DisneyParks.com.

Mimi might be a mere muggle, but she’s ready to join Harry Potter on the “Forbidden Journey”, a high-tech ride at the new Wizarding World theme park opening next spring at Universal Resort in Orlando, Florida.

The “Forbidden Journey” ride was named by author J.K. Rowling .  It will take guests through scenes and rooms of Hogwarts Castle, the boarding school that Harry Potter attends. The entire landscape or island in this case, was inspired and based on scenes from the Potter books and movies.

Other rides in the new “Wizarding World of Harry Potter ” at Universal’s Islands of Adventure will include the “Dragon Challenge,” a twin high-speed roller coaster themed after a wizard tournament.  Plus there’s the family-friendly roller coaster “Flight of the Hippogriff,” named for a creature with an eagle’s head and a horse’s body.

Visitors will be immersed in the magical environment just like walking onto the movie set.  They will wander through the village of Hogsmeade and the Forbidden Forest, stop in Ollivander’s shop where a wand chooses the wizard, visit the Owlery, and dine at The Three Broomsticks or Honeydukes.

You won’t have to cast a spell to get me down to Orlando.  For information: www.universalorlando.com/harrypotter

I can’t wait for the delivery of my pre-ordered copy of Dan Brown’s latest book, The Lost Symbol.  The novel already sits at the top of the bestseller list– two weeks prior to the release date– today!

I understand the story packs mysticism, hidden codes, and the secret society of Freemasons in Washington, D.C., with edge-of-your-seat adventure.

I have visited a few historic sites of Freemasons, so will give readers a tour in future blogs.  I predict tourism at those locations will rise dramatically.

Watch for my book review coming soon, but in the mean time, buy the book and follow our old friend, Professor Robert Langdon, in a new thriller.

     Mimi’s bus trip continued to the Château of Cheverny , a Loire Valley location known for fox-hunting.  Cheverny was built in the 1620’s for Henri Hurault, Comte de Cheverny, the Governor of Blois. The architecture flaunts Louis XIII style, classical symmetry, with five pavilions (divisions) and two roof-top domes.  The 1640’s interior decoration presents some of the finest paneling, painted ceilings, and fireplaces of the era.

Diane de Poitiers, who owned Château de Chenonceau (which Laura and I had just visited earlier that morning), also held deed to a castle on this site. She sold her property back to the original family owners in 1565. The current mansion underwent a major twelve-year renovation during the late 1770’s. The Hurault de Vibraye family, descents of the original builders, acquired the estate in 1825 and have kept it in the family ever since.

Perhpas the facade decorated with sculpted roman busts looks familiar? Cheverny inspired the mythical Château of Moulinsart in Herge’s famous Tintin stories.  (We saw some darling children’s toys and Tintin memorabilia, but I doubt my grandchildren would have recognized the character.  Laura certainly did not recall the story. I recognized Tintin, but honestly have never read the books.)

After entering the main gate, visitors walk down a long, wide gravely path dividing a manicured lawn.  They enter through the small main door, into the lobby boasting a grand limestone staircase with elegant carvings. The ceilings feature finely painted exposed beams creating a lively colorful mood.  The walls are covered with wood paneling decorated with flowers and mottos.  The swanky drawing room dazzles with examples of French decorative arts and period furniture.

We toured the bedrooms including the King’s Chamber where Henri IV slept, the dining room, and armory.  I was impressed by the gracious home-like atmosphere. Some members of the bus tour group visited the private apartments, which were lived in until 1985.  They raved about the interior but time was short and there was too much to see.

Laura and I chose to walk the grounds to the kennels. We heard barking, then found at least seventy dogs of mixed English and French breeds. I’d call them fox hounds. Our guide said feeding time is popular with tourists, especially children who delight in watching the dogs gobble their dinner.

Sadly we missed seeing:  the formal gardens, the organery (where the Mona Lisa was secretly kept during the Second World War), the woodland park offering boat rides and the trophy room- filled with over two hundred stag horns.  Hunts are still held on the property.

But, we must keep on schedule, so tally-ho and away we go.  Next stop-Château de Chambord .

       The Loire Valley is just two hours from Paris and abounds with a wealth of historic chateaux.   Seems the former French royalty discovered this enchanting area made a perfect getaway.  I was ready to join them, even if that meant taking a bus tour.

Laura and I were in Paris so we hopped aboard a bus at 7:15 am, which drove off with about 20 other tourists.  We had two knowledgeable guides who most fortunately understood the need to nap enroute.

First stop was Chateau de Chenonceau which sits not just on the banks but directly over the River Cher.  Chenonceau is often referred to as the ladies chateau as the designers and owners were women.

Upon entering the grounds we walked down a long, sun-dappled tree covered pathway coming to two lion statues acting as sentinels at the gates. Then, we passed the Marques Tower, the oldest standing building remaining from the original fortress built in 1432.  It is exactly what I imagine Rapunzel’s tower in fairy tales to look like.

Our guide led us into the main stone castle through the original wooden doors. This section was built in 1513 but sold to King Francois I in 1535 to pay debts. In 1547 Henri II presented it to his mistress, Diane de Poitiers. Diane loved the chateau and put her feminine touches on the property.

However, when Henri died, the queen (Catherine de Medici) took revenge and forced Diane to take Chaumont (another chateau) in exchange.  In the end, the rivals between these two women created the galleried bridge, the chateau’s most famous feature.  Diane designed and installed a small lower bridge.  Catherine then redesigned a large extension above and thus, the chateau over the river came to be.

Paintings, tapestries, original furniture and other period pieces are scattered throughout the rooms.  Visitors see the guardroom, chapel, bedroom of Diane de Poitiers, and Catherine de Medici’s bedroom.  I found it easy to imagine dancing in the open ballroom of the gallery over the water. The view from the windows was tranquil and calming.

Also we saw Francois I bedroom with a portrait of Diane, a famous staircase and the five queens’ bedroom- used by Catherine de Medici’s two daughters and three daughters-in-law.  Louise of Lorraine’s bedroom on the top floor was decorated in somber black and white for mourning after King Henri III’s death.  She became known as the white queen joining the nuns in white who always surrounded her.

I took this photo of Laura in the upper window balcony because I thought she looked like a princess smiling down on her subjects.

We spent a few minutes in the gardens: one a copy of Diane’s garden, the other is Catherine’s.  Beautiful flowers were blooming and gorgeous arrangements decorated each room in the chateau. Laura and I were disappointed to miss the maze.

Chenonceau is highly recommended.  I would definitely return to this elegant chateau and spend an entire day.  We didn’t have time to take a boat ride on the Cher, which would have made a terrific photo-op.  Also missed the wax museum featuring exquisite period costuming.  The lunch area seemed lovely and goodness, more time to stroll the grounds would have been appreciated.  Most assuredly, if ever possible, I would return at night when the chateau and grounds are illuminated.

          I love Paris and have the urge to sing that famous song while there.  But… truthfully I stifle myself. Anyone who knows me can attest, I have the worse voice in the universe.

So here I was, strolling down the streets of Paris humming until my daughter protested, “Stop, Mom.”

But I continued; I was the child, the one filled with glee.  Chock it up to lack of sleep from the flight, my joy of actually being in Europe or simply the magic that is Paris? 

       We arrived via an overnight plane from Boston, connecting to Paris through Heathrow. A taxi took us to our little boutique hotel, Hotel Caron de Beaumarchais , in the afternoon. 

We stepped in the hotel’s small lobby dominated by (what I learned later) a rare 1792 piano-forte.  Candles and chandeliers created the charm of a private home, circa Mozart.  The English speaking staff welcomed and assisted us with luggage.  And “yes,” they assured us, the hotel offered free wifi. 

 We took the elevator up to our room on the third floor- twin beds draped in white spreads, a desk or make-up area and by European standards a  large, shiny, modern bathroom with a shower/tub and decorative tile.  White hand towels were fresh and emblazed with the hotel logo.

Best part of our room was the window with a view, which I immediately popped open, stuck my head out and took this snapshot.  I saw shops and a multitude of restaurants and cafes, including many ethnic varieties. Mmm.  Was that croissants I smelled?

After a short rest and we took off, happy to discover Caron de Beaumarchais was only two blocks from the Seine. The city sizzled, not from the heat but with activity.  A Sunday afternoon crowd included couples smooching, tourists checking guide books, booksellers standing by their wares and artists at work. Numerous roller skaters zoomed by, not many joggers; perhaps they are more abundant in the early morning hours. How romantic I thought; even if your spouse or love is missing, this city is enchanting. 

The sidewalks along the river felt comfortable because they looked familiar; I’ve experienced Paris so often through movies, TV shows and books. I pinched myself, The sights, sounds and smells were everything I wanted them to be.      

Laura and I crossed a bridge heading for Notre Dame.  We entered through the arched doorway framed by statuesque columns of saints and found the unexpected—a prayer service in progress. To think a historic cathedral over 850 years old was still in use.  I liked that. 

We spied a little diorama showing the medieval construction methods used to build the church.  This glassed in exhibit of tiny workers, oxen, ropes and pulleys should not be missed if you’re traveling with children. 

Sunlight poked through the famous Rose window (stained glass) and outside,the gargoyles kept watch as they have for centuries.  We didn’t have time to wait in the queue of tourists snaking round the corner.  They were ready to climb to the top of belltower, however, Laura and I moved along feeling the city under our feet. 

          We crossed back over the river on a different bridge and were astounded by the hundreds, and I do mean hundreds, of policemen dressed in SWAT gear.  What in the world was happening?  A major demonstration planned? 

No.  Later it was explained that the date, June 21^st, is the longest day of the year and is celebrated as a city-wide Music Fete.

Lisa, an American friend who lives in Paris met us at our hotel.  She navigated the subway, getting off at the Louvre.  We dined with abandon at the fashionable Le Cafe Marley overlooking the Louve’s Pyramid and courtyard.  (See my restaurant review at my food blog: www.bylanderseafood.blogspot.com .)

To start, we tasted a traditional French appertif- Kir Royale (champagne and cream de cassis.)  I was so taken with the location I cannot remember what type of fish I ate. However, I can remember dessert. Laura and I indulged in a chocolate lava cake- oozing a molten center and Lisa chose a raspberry macaroon. 

 We strolled past the Pyramid, through the gardens, an arch and into Place de la Concorde.  We continued up the Champs Elysees all the way to the Arch de Triumph to catch a glimpse of the Eiffel Tower. On the stroke of 11:00 PM, it light up like a huge sparkler, a burst of energy in the distance.  We oohed and aahed but feeling totally exhausted, caught a cab. 

However, the taxi couldn’t get us close to our hotel because of the massive street party. Fortunately I recognized the shops we passed on our ride from the airport and maneuvered through the fete back to our hotel.  We squeezed through crowds like New Orleans during Mardi Gras.  I hugged Laura and my camera close, but the Parisians were a happy crowd.

Needless to say our little room with a view no longer remained a quiet retreat.  All those cafes were now rowdy with revelers.  We were so tired we fell asleep despite the boisterous noise out the window. Funny, but when the crowd dispersed around two I woke up to the silence.  Oh, how I love Paris. 

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Mimi chose Hotel Caron de Beaumarchais on the recommendation of The Provence Post (a wonderful blog) and paid for her own room.