Aug 27 2009
Château de Cheverny in France: Tally-Ho and Tintin
Mimi’s bus trip continued to the Château of Cheverny , a Loire Valley location known for fox-hunting. Cheverny was built in the 1620’s for Henri Hurault, Comte de Cheverny, the Governor of Blois. The architecture flaunts Louis XIII style, classical symmetry, with five pavilions (divisions) and two roof-top domes. The 1640’s interior decoration presents some of the finest paneling, painted ceilings, and fireplaces of the era.
Diane de Poitiers, who owned Château de Chenonceau (which Laura and I had just visited earlier that morning), also held deed to a castle on this site. She sold her property back to the original family owners in 1565. The current mansion underwent a major twelve-year renovation during the late 1770’s. The Hurault de Vibraye family, descents of the original builders, acquired the estate in 1825 and have kept it in the family ever since.
Perhpas the facade decorated with sculpted roman busts looks familiar? Cheverny inspired the mythical Château of Moulinsart in Herge’s famous Tintin stories. (We saw some darling children’s toys and Tintin memorabilia, but I doubt my grandchildren would have recognized the character. Laura certainly did not recall the story. I recognized Tintin, but honestly have never read the books.)
After entering the main gate, visitors walk down a long, wide gravely path dividing a manicured lawn. They enter through the small main door, into the lobby boasting a grand limestone staircase with elegant carvings. The ceilings feature finely painted exposed beams creating a lively colorful mood. The walls are covered with wood paneling decorated with flowers and mottos. The swanky drawing room dazzles with examples of French decorative arts and period furniture.
We toured the bedrooms including the King’s Chamber where Henri IV slept, the dining room, and armory. I was impressed by the gracious home-like atmosphere. Some members of the bus tour group visited the private apartments, which were lived in until 1985. They raved about the interior but time was short and there was too much to see.
Laura and I chose to walk the grounds to the kennels. We heard barking, then found at least seventy dogs of mixed English and French breeds. I’d call them fox hounds. Our guide said feeding time is popular with tourists, especially children who delight in watching the dogs gobble their dinner.
Sadly we missed seeing: the formal gardens, the organery (where the Mona Lisa was secretly kept during the Second World War), the woodland park offering boat rides and the trophy room- filled with over two hundred stag horns. Hunts are still held on the property.
But, we must keep on schedule, so tally-ho and away we go. Next stop-Château de Chambord .
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