Thoroughly Modern Mimi

Day 5 - Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi                  

We continue following the path of the Illuminati as our story wends through Rome.  Vittoria has been kidnapped and Professor Langdon struggles on his own.  He desperately tries to connect the series of clues: earth, wind, fire and water.  Using his knowledge of symbology, he heads toward Piazza Navona.  He suspects Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi or the Fountain of Four Rivers is the source of the “water” clue.

The massive fountain sits in the middle of Piazza Navona, one of Rome’s most famous squares.  The open space is actually long and oval shaped, rather than four-sided, because it was built over emperor  Domitian’s ancient stadium. The name derived from “in agone” meaning the place of combat.  But today, instead of gladiator fights, we find a festive atmosphere.

The spot is always boisterous and bustling, except for that certain night in the Angels & Demons!  If you visit , you’ll find a cadray of street performers, lively music, outdoor café’s, fine restaurants and even night clubs.

The square is also home to the  Church of Saint Agnes in Agony, commissioned by Pope Innocent X.  Legend says this is the site where St Agnes was stripped naked, but miraculously saved from disgrace by her hair’s extraordinary growth. Shall we say,  a cross between discreet Lady Godiva and a spontaneous Rapunzel.

               The massive Fountain of Four Rivers was constructed between 1647 and 1651 and is another of Bernini’s creations (does that surprise?)  To me, it resembles the famous Trevi Fountain, not in shape, but for the inclusion of heroic statues and platforms amidst roaring water. At night floodlights radiate underwater creating a greenish-golden glow.

The four rivers are represented by the Nile, Ganges, Danube and the Rio de la Plata.  They depict the then known continents under papal power.  These rivers spalsh from a central marble rock, where a Roman obelisk rises high above. The obelisk honors the ancient founder of the square.

Bernini’s statue is naturally baroque in style,  filled with symbolic touches. Bracing against the currents are pagan river gods,  animals and plants, each supposedly appropriate to the continent. For instance, the Ganges carries a long oar, representing the river’s navigability and a snake slithers nearby.

The Nile’s head is draped with a loose piece of cloth, because no one knew exactly where the Nile starts. An African lion lurches from the middle of the basin , a specimen of the continent.

The Danube touches the Papal coat of arms, since it is the large river closest to Rome. A regal horse dramatically charges through the pool.

And the Río de la Plata god sits on a pile of coins, a symbol of the riches the Americas could offer to Europe.  Since not much was known  about the animals in North or South America  in the 17^th century ,a strange looking crocodile, armor-plated like an armadillo was chosen as the representative creature.  Be sure to look for it.

Coin-tossing kids and sweaty tourists love to stand close, allowing the cool mist to spray on their body.  They watch the water cascading down the stones, amazed at this outdoor wonder.  Professor Langdon didn’t have time to appreciate the masterpiece; he was too busy trying not to drown.

Fortunately, visitors to the Eternal City find life-sustaining fountains galore, each spewing a seemingly endless supply of aqua.  Water, water everywhere… oh, where will our story flow?

Mimi (Debi Lander) did not, nor is she now, receiving any compensation from Dan Brown, Sony Pictures or the Angels & Demons tour company.  She paid her own travels and tour expenses.

Images by Debi Lander, Gary Granfield  or courtesy of Wikimedia Commons. 

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